Development status
As a competitive tyrosinase inhibitor, deoxyarbutin can regulate the production of melanin, overcome pigmentation, fade the black spots of skin, and have a rapid and lasting skin whitening effect. The inhibition of deoxyarbutin on tyrosinase is obviously better than other whitening active agents, and a small amount of deoxyarbutin can show whitening and brightening effect. Deoxyarbutin also has a strong antioxidant effect.
Product use
Deoxyarbutin, as a new generation of cosmetic brightening and whitening active agent, is mainly used in high-grade whitening cosmetics. D-Arbutin is one of the derivatives of arbutin, called D-arbutin, which can effectively inhibit the action of tyramine enzyme in skin tissue, according to studies, it is even 10 times more potent than hydroquinone and 350 times more potent than ordinary arbutin. In animal skin tests, the D-Arbutin lightened skin quickly and effectively, and the effect lasted for nearly eight weeks after the use was stopped. In human clinical studies, topical use of D-Arbutin for 12 weeks can obtain significant skin lightening effect, and it has a good improvement effect on daily optical activity exposure spots and dull skin conditions. Clinical studies of D-Arbutin have further pointed out that in the past, many tyrosine enzyme inhibitors have been used to reduce the accumulation of melanin in skin lesions, D-Arbutin manufactured by QSAR (quantitative structure-activity relationships) technology is a very effective tyramine enzyme inhibitor and has a significant blocking effect on melanin formation in the skin. According to the test results of human skin melanocytes, the safe concentration of D-Arbutin used can be more than 4 times that of hydroquinone when keeping 95% of the cells alive, which indicates that the toxicity of D-Arbutin to melanocytes is much safer than that of hydroquinone. Moreover, experiments on human skin keratinocytes (the main cell in the epidermis) and fibroblasts (the dermis) indicate that D-Arbutin is still much less toxic to cells than hydroquinone. It should be made clear that in terms of inhibiting melanin formation, compared with hydroquinone, D-Arbutin can achieve superior effects than high concentrations of hydroquinone at relatively low concentrations.
When the use of D-Arbutin is stopped, the tyramine enzyme action and melanin content in the skin will slowly recover, which means that D-Arbutin will not cause the toxic effect of melanocytes, so that melanocytes can still exist normal physiological machinery. In an 8-week clinical study, topical use of D-Arbutin resulted in gradual but significant skin lightening. Another clinical study showed that with the appropriate concentration of D-Arbutin solution, good clinical results can be obtained within 3 weeks. And according to experiments, the effect of D-Arbutin against melanin can reach 10 times that of hydroquinone, 150 times that of kojic acid, 350 times that of general arbutin (β-arbutin), and if compared with the popular alpha-arbutin, it is 38.5 times that of it.
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